What to do with a motor?

Justin

Justin

Member
#21
#21
George said:
Well you can look at local metal fabricating shops if you have any near you, ask if they have old stock scrap. If you buy this stuff it will cost a lot in stainless. Is there any way to contact the person who made the one in the picture? They do have similar ones on eBay but I think you want to build it yourself. Finding and cutting the parts to size could be expensive and a challenge if you don't have the tools. The first thing I would do is design it either on paper or in a cad program. Then look for a fabricator around where you live to see if they have some scrap
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I would actually be fine with building this in wood or MDF (Medium density fiberboard) to keep costs down. I contacted the guy on YouTube and he's only responded to one of my comments and has yet to respond to the other.
George said:
I would be happy to draw the design out on either cad or drafting table if you like. I can look at that picture and have a good idea of dimensions, the design is simple, and you could get rid of some of the decorations like the knob on the handle that would just run costs up. Let me know if you want the help, I can get it done this week and post it here. I will look some more online today for an inexpensive place to get the parts needed.
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It would be amazing if you could!:eek:
George said:
Justin,

Here is another option from Sears. This press is for a dremel tool but I am sure it could be modified. Unless you can get the steel from free I don't think you could build one cheaper than this at $32.
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Actually I already have plans for this one I got from somewhere else and even though it may not be cheaper or around the same price, I could build it to fit the exact needs of my motor. Those plans are simply just for a backup if I can't get the one above to work.
 
George

George

Moderator
#22
#22
Justin said:
I would actually be fine with building this in wood or MDF (Medium density fiberboard) to keep costs down. I contacted the guy on YouTube and he's only responded to one of my comments and has yet to respond to the other.

It would be amazing if you could!:eek:

Actually I already have plans for this one I got from somewhere else and even though it may not be cheaper or around the same price, I could build it to fit the exact needs of my motor. Those plans are simply just for a backup if I can't get the one above to work.
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I will draw up some plans for you. I know it wont be today so I will try for tomorrow morning after work.
 
Justin

Justin

Member
#23
#23
George said:
I will draw up some plans for you. I know it wont be today so I will try for tomorrow morning after work.
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Thanks, I'm already working on a design myself that I got help from another guy. He gave me the basis idea and I constructed the 3d version. It's super simple and really easy to make and it's something I'll probably build first before I move onto the design your making. Super excited for you work though. Here is what I have so far. Dimensions to come when I finish. The drill mounts on the front plate on the little square that moves up and down on the two metal bars. There will also be springs on the bottom of the two metal bars so that it doesn't just fall to the bottom.

Edit: Look what I found

PCB Drill Speed Controller with 555
Described here is a simple, inexpensive and useful circuit for electronics hobbyists. The circuit is nothing but a PCB drill speed controller, which can be used to control the speed of any 12VDC small pcb drilling units. Such portable units are now widely available, and even a hobbyist can make it without too much difficulty.

In this circuit, the renowned timer chip LM555 (IC1) is used as a PWM circuit. The whole circuit can be powered from a standard 12VDC supply, capable of sourcing ample current to the PCB drill motor. As you may noted, power supply for the PWM circuit is down-converted and regulated with the help of a 3-pin fixed regulator chip LM7805 (IC2). This will improve the circuit stability. Precision 50K trimpot P1 is the variable drill speed controller. Finally, a logic-level power Mosfet IRL 530N (T1) is used as the output drive element. This IRL530N mosfet (available in TO-220 package) can handle current upto 27A! Fast switching and Low on-resistance – RDS (on) – are other attracting features. IRL 530N is universally preferred for all commercial-industrial applications at power dissipation levels to approximately 50 watts.

Notice how the motor and chuck shown is the same in the eBay link that George posted above?
 

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George

George

Moderator
#25
#25
Justin,

That looks great! Looks like you are well on your way to making this project reality. If there is anything I can do to help just let me know.
 
Daithi

Daithi

Member
#27
#27
Justin said:
Build it for me :p
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Now that's funny!!!

Seriously Justin you have put a lot of thought into this project and I can't wait to see how it turns out...
As for the materials - George has the right idea about looking around for a local metals fabricater - more often than not they have a ton of scrap laying around... Also check out your local scrap metal yard... Of course the base can be made from wood and you can use parts of an old bike frame for the shaft and handle (just need a good jigsaw with a metal cutting blade)...

That speed controller circuit looks decent (I thought about giving it a try soon)... I think it will work great for your project...
 
Justin

Justin

Member
#28
#28
Daithi said:
Now that's funny!!!
That speed controller circuit looks decent (I thought about giving it a try soon)... I think it will work great for your project...
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I think it would too but it would be something I add to this project much later on since I'd rather just get this done and make adjustments as it needs later on. I would love to do this project in metal, but I don't have the equipment to weld all the pieces together.
 
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Justin

Justin

Member
#29
#29
Moved the sliding piece back closer to the back spine. This will make it more stable and allow less movement in the metal rods, if there is any. I think it turned out well and it allows more space for the PCB board to sit on the bottom plate. I think I'll make the bottom plate a square instead of a small rectangle in order to make it more stable when it stands. Maybe even add foot pegs that are resistant to sliding.

Anyways, here's a picture of what I changed. No dimensions yet, but will add later when I finish making changes.

Also, a video of the motor, finally.
Warning! Imminent squeaking noises ahead! Turn down volume if you're sensitive to these noise!
​
 

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George

George

Moderator
#30
#30
Justin said:
I think it would too but it would be something I add to this project much later on since I'd rather just get this done and make adjustments as it needs later on. I would love to do this project in metal, but I don't have the equipment to weld all the pieces together.
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No welding needed, just cutting and drilling. The reason metal would be better is for accuracy on drilling. The holes you will drill in the PCB are very small and having a tightly built press would ensure better quality. You might end up with a lot of play using wood over time due to wear, temp, humidity. With a metal press your tolerances would be much tighter but you do need the right tools to do it. Something you may want to look into if this is a tool you will use often.
 
Justin

Justin

Member
#31
#31
George said:
No welding needed, just cutting and drilling. The reason metal would be better is for accuracy on drilling. The holes you will drill in the PCB are very small and having a tightly built press would ensure better quality. You might end up with a lot of play using wood over time due to wear, temp, humidity. With a metal press your tolerances would be much tighter but you do need the right tools to do it. Something you may want to look into if this is a tool you will use often.
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Yeah, I've thought about that with wood but I'm not sure how I would build this design with metal by cutting and drilling. My holes would have to be at angle in order to hold the joints together. That's why I'm going with Medium Density Fiberboard. I can cut it to shape like the wood and it won't have as much play because it won't be affected as much wear, temp, or humidity. Like I said this is my first build and sure, it's not going to be perfect. I want to build another, maybe in a couple months, that will maybe be metal, I hope.

Edit: Changed the design to make it more stable.
 

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George

George

Moderator
#33
#33
Justin said:
Soldering kit came in!

Super cheap but soldering pencil kind of sucks, I might get a new one at Canadian Tire or at The Source.
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Nice Justin! If it is the solder sucker you don't like try using solder wick, that works great for fixing mistakes and is cheap.
 
Justin

Justin

Member
#36
#36
George said:
Did you try the solder sucker yet? when you do please let me know how it works.
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I haven't yet, the soldering iron is 220V so that's why I can't use it. I only get half the wattage rating I need so it doesn't heat up enough to melt the solder. I'll check back in a few days (Hopefully tomorrow) when I get a new soldering iron and use it. I have used the soldering sucker though. I pushed it down, placed it on my palm, then let it go and it has some decent suction. Enough to hold it on my hand without my aid.
 
Justin

Justin

Member
#38
#38
Maybe once this is done I'll build this :cool:

Edit: So, I got bored of waiting for my drill chuck to arrive, so I decided to make a hand held version of my drill press. This one is pure battery powered, but if I wanted, I could hook it up to a 9-18V DC wall wart. I used my original 9-18VDC super-speed motor. 24,000 RPM, no load. Maximum 4.2 Amps motor. It uses 9V DC via a battery and is hooked up to a switch for on and off convenience. I still can't put bits onto this one since I haven't gotten my chucks (I ordered two). After I drilled and carved holes into the pill bottle's lid, it was no longer able to lock on like it used to. To solve that issue, I screwed some elastic bands under the screws (The screw prevent the motor's shaft from going back into the case) and made them going up and around the battery.

It doesn't have much power since it's only 9V, but this only took me an hour to make since I was making it with no pre-made plans or ideas.

Here are the pictures!
 

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Justin

Justin

Member
#39
#39
Justin said:
George said:
Nice Justin! If it is the solder sucker you don't like try using solder wick, that works great for fixing mistakes and is cheap.
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I haven't yet, the soldering iron is 220V so that's why I can't use it. I only get half the wattage rating I need so it doesn't heat up enough to melt the solder. I'll check back in a few days (Hopefully tomorrow) when I get a new soldering iron and use it. I have used the soldering sucker though. I pushed it down, placed it on my palm, then let it go and it has some decent suction. Enough to hold it on my hand without my aid.
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Well I just got a soldering iron (Little late :oops:) and used the soldering sucker. It's okay, nothing too special. It works like it should. The only issue I have is that I don't have anything to hold the two leads when I'm trying to desolder something so it usually takes a few tries. Other than that, it works just fine for me.
George said:
Here is one where you can make a fan, it calls for 3V but you could just modify it for the motor you have. Fan Project
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Bumping one of the first posts in this thread. While I would definitely recommend this, I already took apart an old computer I have got a fan ;) Check out what else I got here.

Edit: I'm thinking about building this for a power supply for my smaller motor. Why not right? I want to see how well it does at full power. I also added some LEDs to my small drill prototype.
I would have used white LEDs but I don't have any :c Oh well. I turned off all the lights and you can still see just fine. If anything this is just a prototype that I made to see how I'm going to make all my connections with the drill press. Also the only reason I did the LED attachments is because I got a new soldering iron today and wanted to test it out
It doesn't get hot enough to melt the solder on an old computer's motherboard though so I can't get all those sexy capacitors
 
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Justin

Justin

Member
#40
#40
Maybe one day I'll build that 18V power supply, but, I found an old laptop charger of mine and it has the ability to change voltages and adapters for different laptops. The 18V setting has 4.2 amps and at that setting, I'm maxing out my motor for full performance. I had an old female power port thing from an old battery pack and one of the male adapters for this charger fits it nice and snug. Maybe about 1/2 cm sticks out but there still isn't a chance of electric shock because the other lead is covered. I just can't wait for my chucks to come in
 
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